The Costa Brava, or the “Brave Coast” of Spain, is, seemingly, oddly named. What does courage have to do with the lovely rocky coastline and sandy beaches of this northern Spanish region? Well, it’s a confused translation. Brava means brave, yes, but it also means “fierce” or “wild,” and that is completely appropriate.
Wild, for sure. Even after centuries of habitation, there is still something untamed about it. Even in the oldest corners, where generations have tried to shape the land to their will, it refuses to be fully subdued.
On our recent trip to the Costa Brava, we used the beautiful seaside village of Tossa de Mar as our launching pad, with the idea of exploring the smaller medieval villages scattered around it at our leisure.
As it turned out, leisure became the main task of every day of our vacation. We spent so much time at leisure that we had little time—or inclination—for much else.
One day, though, we found ourselves searching maps and furiously Googling which villages on the Costa Brava were best for a day trip. Hindered by our electric vehicle and its abysmal driving range, along with the sparse availability of charging stations, we aimed for a destination somewhere between 20 and 60 minutes away.
Miles, kilometers… they mean very little here. With the curving, slithering roads that weave around hills and mountains, three miles can easily become an 18-minute drive. So, we kept our search area small.
We identified a few contenders, but ultimately settled on a small medieval village called Besalú. We hopped into the car, plugged the destination into our maps app, and away we went. About an hour later, we arrived and were instantly overwhelmed.
The village is something out of a fairy tale. It truly feels as though one is stepping back in time. Many buildings are around a thousand years old.
The stone bridge leading into the fortified town was built in the 12th century. It was impossible not to imagine all the feet that had crossed the same stones we traversed and the people who had lived there centuries ago—people who likely thought the town was old even then.
I was struck by a feeling of startling insignificance when faced with the magnificence of the masonry beneath my feet, connecting one side of the River Fluvià to the other. The bridge stretches 105 meters long and rises about 30 meters high, with eight arches and two towers that give it the unmistakable appearance of a road leading to a palace in every fantasy film ever made.
The honey-gold stone continues into the town itself. After stepping off the bridge, travelers are greeted by charming little shops selling metal and wooden toys, handmade woven bags and baskets, bakeries and, unexpectedly, a shop devoted entirely to medieval clothing.
The shopkeepers must understand the spell the place casts over visitors because everything feels as though it belongs to another time. Maybe not the 10th or 12th centuries, but a bygone era all the same.
The 10th-century Church of Sant Vicenç and the Monastery of Sant Pere stand proudly at the opposite end of town—somehow a little lonely, yet still beautiful, regal and steadfast. The church itself was dark but peaceful, and the cobblestone streets seemed to guide our feet naturally inside for a few quiet moments of reflection.
Afterward, we stumbled upon a little café where we enjoyed the most affordable glasses of wine we’d had during the trip, along with a lovely bowl of olives. We talked, we sipped and we admired the stone buildings and the astonishing longevity of a place like this.
And… that’s pretty much it. Besides a few sweet little shops, an ancient bridge, centuries-old churches and reasonably priced house wine, there isn’t much else to do in Besalú.
Which, honestly, is fine.
Sometimes we’re so busy doing that we forget to notice. We forget to simply be.
As we left the lovely little medieval town a few hours later, I had a very real sense that being, noticing and leisure are some of the most important tasks there are.
Alexandria Nolan-Miller is a misplaced Michigander navigating the vibrant chaos of Houston’s urban jungle. She travels with her husband and young son, contributing her insights and experiences to various print and digital publications. As the author of historical books rooted in Michigan, Alexandria brings the past to life through her writing. When not on the road, she can be found immersed in books, teaching, sharing stories, and chasing new adventures to inspire her next piece.
